Hallicrafters S76

Hallicrafters S-76 / USM-76 Military Version

Described fully here.

First

Second "The Junker"

I have another S-76, which I am very impressed with, and bought this
one to have some special fun with. My intention is to re-do the front panel and
case in some outlandish colour, put new lettering on, replace all the knobs,
generally go in the opposite direction to originality ... but to retain the
electrics and re-cap etc..

Restoration Ideas

I asked on the Hallicrafters QTH.net discussion group for suggestions on outlandish designs for this S76. Here are some of them:

  • KB9TMY: Actually, I kind of like the look of  those horrible Dymo labels for a project of this type. As a finish, you might  also consider Zolotone, that blotchy finish that originated in California and  was used on Juke Boxes. It looks like someone puked on it after eating a  burrito. There's also Cammo if you want an ugly military look. For the  tuning knobs, I'd cast some plastic ones that look like a certain part of a  woman's anatomy. Just think what you could do with concentric knobs, like on the  SX-42. Lastly, be sure and use an old cloth line cord with no less than 3  splices, one of them done with Band Aid's.

  • Lee Craner: If we're going to go with the military look, let's have the front panel engraved rather than use decals. Using Photoshop, Word, etc. print a full scale mockup of the desired lettering.  Then strip the front panel to bare metal and repaint (a nice black wrinkle
    would be perfect).  Take it to a small engraving shop and they will set up their engraving machine to engraved out the black paint, leaving the shiny bare
    metal for lettering.  I actually did this with an HBR-16 and the results are wonderful.

  • Don W4BWS: You can paint it Johnson Maroon color and match it with the Ranger or Viking 2. Or if you like Drake, paint it the 2 tone with the stripe across the
    middle of the left dial and down under the meter. Or paint it pink with green lettering and claim it came from the pink submarine on Operation Petticoat.

  • John Page: Paint it black wrinkle and use BC-348 knobs. That spinner would look great. Also a big 1 inch red pilot would also be appropriate. Be sure to mark the bandswitch, channell 9, channell 19, etc. Well you get the idea.

  • Rocco N6KN: Candy apple red paint, with perhaps several coats with sanding to achieve that "smooth" look.  Flames on the side to match what happens when you apply power might be appropriate.  Chroming the chassis would elicit that "wow" factor when you lift the hood. Also - neon lights to replace those dim incandescent bulbs would really help the nighttime appearance.  Or you might consider fluorescent paint on the meter face with an ultraviolet lamp to get the "glow."   Heck - light up the bottom of the cabinet with purple lights - you could buy one of the kits at Pep Boys - to achieve that real Southern California cruising look. Go for it.  This is a topic worthy of discussion at Continental Burger, if that place is still in business.

  • Mike Everette: New 19 inch rack type panel, side braces to support it. (I have some braces, not sure about a panel but will look if you are intrigued by the concept.) You could use the original panel as a template.  It would not be hard to make. Paint it black wrinkle.  Don't forget the handles on the sides of the panel. Put it in a Mil-style box, maybe an RBK-S36 style case; or go one better:  an SX-28 cabinet (I have one less chrome trims and bottom plate if you are intrigued and want it), also painted black wrinkle. Replace the "ka-nobs" with the style used on the Collins R-388.  These have that right "military look." Letter it with white decals.  Come up with some MIL nomenclature like "MODEL REZ RADIO RECEIVING EQUIPMENT" per a Navy radio name plate. Put it on eBay:  "RARE HALLI MIL RECEIVER! L@@K!"  With a reserve of at least $600.00.  It'll bring a grand, or more!  Ga-Ron-Teed!

  • Gary Brown: If it was me, I would paint it white with a red cross sticker on it, like they use to on hospital ships.

  • Chris W7JPG: Car guys have a group that loves "rat-rods"; We could have a parallel group that loves "rat-rigs"!  Julian, keep in mind "patina" is everything....so
    when painting, do it swede... and keep the bullethole!!

  • Rich Soennichsen: Copper plate the whole chassis, that way you have to polish it often, a continual "restoration". Flock it. Do it in deep shag. (Kinda hard to find the knobs) astroturf

  • Thierry Stora: I suggest to use custom knobs made of translucent plastic in various flashy colors.

  • Bob Nickels: a nice oak cabinet, maybe gold anodized aluminum knobs...make 'er a real looker. Then write some audiophoolery copy and see if you can get a grand for it on eBay!  (Or maybe move it into the living room?)

  • Carl Nord: Strip and chrome plate or use for a template to make a nice grained wood cabinet

  • Terry KC9KEL: Omigosh, a Science-Fair Special.  I like it in black, but maybe...camoflage coloring, relabel it in German or Russian, including the S-meter, and build in a 36" antenna, protruding from the top of the case.  Perhaps that was what the hole was for?  You could even go so far as to cobble up a document of some kind that would lend credence to its authenticity, blur it somewhat, age it in your oven, and VIOLA!, A TRULY RARE EXPORT HALLICRAFTERS used by the secret service of some foreign government...  On second thought, the hole prolly was for the outboard decoder attachment. Or maybe the self-destruct button?

Documentation

S-76 Manual (DJVU)

S-76 Manual (pdf)

First page of Sam's Photofact (JPG)

"Gadgets for the S76" - QST Article from Nov. 1954, thanks to Larry Keith KQ4BY

Other S76 Web Pages

http://hug-a-bug.com/S-76.html

http://www.dxing.com/rx/s76.htm